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Oaxacan Restaurant     $$-$$$     (D)
Like its next-door neighbor Terranova, Importador strives for a finer dining experience than some of its street-level competitors on the Zócalo, offering better service and presentation of its food, and charging slightly more for it. For all its striving, though, the cooking, a mix of Oaxacan and imported favorites, comes up short, which pretty much sums up the culinary accomplishments of all the sidewalk cafés and restaurants on the plaza. Nevertheless, on the importado side of the menu, the large mound of Spanish paella is a nice break from Oaxacan food — if, indeed, a break is needed — and a real bargain at 80 pesos, available on Saturdays and Sundays only.

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