• Oaxacan Restaurant, Wine • $$-$$$ • (A)
With unbeatable views of the cathedral from its second-story perch, this upscale bistro creates faithful renditions of Oaxacan classics, including molotes, empanadas, tlayudas, traditional soups, and several of the seven moles, among many other delectables. Adorning the walls, antique black and white photographs and a yellowing 19th-century map of the city evoke the México of old. The decent wine list and excellent dessert menu seal the deal. Look for the entrance on Hidalgo Avenue, across the street from the Alameda de León plaza. And be sure to arrive early or call ahead to reserve a table with a view.